Our Fabric Partner: Halley Stevensons Waxed Cotton - Since 1864
At Jack Murphy Ireland, we believe that exceptional outerwear begins with exceptional fabric. That is why we partner with Halley Stevensons, the world's leading manufacturer of waxed cotton and weatherproof textiles, producing premium fabrics at their historic Baltic Works mill in Dundee, Scotland, since 1864.
When you wear a Jack Murphy waxed cotton jacket, you are wearing over 160 years of Scottish textile expertise woven into every fibre. This is not just fabric. It is a legacy of craftsmanship passed from generation to generation.
A Scottish Legacy: From Sailcloth to Outerwear
1400
The story of waxed cotton begins not in a factory, but on the wild waters of the North Sea. In the early 15th century, Scottish herring fleets operating from the east coast ports of Scotland began treating their flax sailcloth with fish oils and grease to waterproof their sails.
The remnants of these treated sails were fashioned into capes to shield the sailors from high winds and sea spray. These were the earliest forerunners of the waxed cotton jacket.
1800
By the mid-1800s, sailcloth had evolved into lighter-weight cotton yarn treated with linseed oil. Early Royal Navy sailing ships and tea clippers were among the first to use these lightweight cotton sails. One of the most famous vessels to be fitted with Dundee-made sails was The Discovery, Captain Scott's Antarctic exploration ship, which still sits proudly in Dundee's harbour today.
1864
It was in this thriving maritime textile city that Halley Stevensons established Baltic Works in 1864. The name itself pays tribute to the Baltic trade routes that brought raw linen and flax into the Scottish ports. What began as a jute weaving mill during the industrial revolution would become the world's foremost name in waxed cotton.
Pioneering Waterproof Textiles Since 1910
Innovation has always been at the heart of Halley Stevensons' work. In 1910, the company was awarded its first patent (No. 24593) for a method of cleaning and waterproofing textiles. Developed during the early 1900s to support the British war effort, the approach used a combination of khaki pigment, soap, and potash alum to form a waterproof barrier. It was approved by the Army Council and, during World War I, became the only fabric renovator permitted for military use.
That pioneering spirit has never faded. Over 160 years later, the team at Baltic Works continues to design and build bespoke machinery in-house, giving them manufacturing capabilities that no other textile producer can match. Their research and development laboratory works constantly to develop new finishes and treatments that push the boundaries of what waxed cotton can do, while remaining true to the time-honoured qualities that make it such a remarkable material.
For Jack Murphy, this means access to fabrics that combine generations of proven performance with the very latest in textile engineering. Every waxed cotton garment in our collection benefits from this ongoing commitment to innovation.
Baltic Works, Dundee: Where Every Metre is Made
Every piece of Halley Stevensons waxed cotton is produced under one roof at Baltic Works, a historic 12,600 square metre factory in the heart of Dundee. Dyeing, singeing, finishing, waxing, and quality testing all happen within these walls, overseen by a team of skilled technicians who have dedicated their careers to perfecting the craft.
The process is meticulous. Raw cotton is singed to remove loose fibres before being dyed, then passed through a calendar, a series of pressurised rollers that produce a smooth, refined finish. The fabric is then sanforised to control shrinkage, ensuring dimensional stability in the finished garment.
The defining step is the hot waxing. The fabric passes through a bath of specially formulated wax, then through a sequence of cooling rollers before being wound onto large frames. The specific wax blend and application method are what give each Halley Stevensons fabric its distinctive handle, appearance, and level of water resistance.
This end-to-end, in-house approach gives Halley Stevensons, and by extension, Jack Murphy Ireland; complete control over quality, consistency, and performance. Every roll of fabric that leaves Baltic Works meets the exacting standards that both our brands demand.
Why Waxed Cotton? Four Qualities That Set It Apart
Waxed cotton is often called the original performance fabric, and for good reason. Unlike synthetic alternatives that can delaminate and lose their protective qualities over time, waxed cotton is a material that actively improves with age. Here is what makes it so special.
Built to last
The densely woven cotton base is inherently strong and hardwearing. When treated with Halley Stevensons' specialist wax finishes, it becomes a material that can endure years of daily wear in demanding conditions. Unlike many synthetic fabrics that end up in landfill once their coatings fail, a waxed cotton garment can be maintained and reproofed at home, extending its life indefinitely.
Archie Wax Jacket - Navy
Naturally Weather-Resistant
Waxed cotton provides excellent protection against wind and rain without relying on the synthetic chemical coatings found in many modern performance fabrics. The wax creates a natural barrier against the elements, keeping you dry and protected in the conditions where it matters most.
Orla Wax Coat - Olive
Breathable and Adaptive
One of the most remarkable properties of waxed cotton is its responsiveness to temperature. In warmer conditions, the wax softens and the fabric becomes more breathable and supple. In cold weather, the wax stiffens, creating a more windproof, insulating layer. It is a fabric that works with you and the environment around you, not against it.
Claire Wax Jacket - Hunting Green
Develops Unique Character
Every waxed cotton garment tells its own story. The wax naturally picks up marks, creases, and a patina through wear, creating a look that is entirely unique to the wearer. Rather than degrading, waxed cotton matures. A well-loved Jack Murphy waxed jacket will look even better after years of faithful service than it did on day one.
Ciarán Wax Jacket - OliveA Responsible Choice: Sustainability at the Source
At Jack Murphy Ireland, sustainability is not a trend; it is a principle that guides how we choose our materials and our partners. Halley Stevensons shares this commitment at every level of their production.
Their cotton is responsibly sourced through partnerships with organisations including the Organic Content Standard (OCS) and Better Cotton Initiative (BCI).
The manufacturing processes at Baltic Works are specifically designed to minimise environmental impact: their dyeing methods use very low levels of water, and their waxes are simply heated for application and cooled for storage, producing no waste discharges.
The waxes themselves are biodegradable, derived from by-products of other industries rather than purpose-manufactured chemicals. Wax offers a natural water-repellent barrier with a far lighter ecological footprint.
Halley Stevensons is a certified bluesign® system partner, demonstrating their commitment to eliminating harmful substances from the manufacturing process and ensuring responsible production standards throughout their supply chain.
Perhaps most importantly, a waxed cotton garment is inherently sustainable because it is designed to last. With regular reproofing and simple care, a Jack Murphy waxed cotton jacket will serve you for years, even decades, rather than ending up in a landfill after a few seasons.
Learn more about our commitment to sustainability
Why Jack Murphy Ireland Chose Halley Stevensons
Since 1973, Jack Murphy Ireland has been crafting outerwear that blends Irish heritage with genuine performance. When it comes to waxed cotton, there is simply no other fabric partner that matches our standards.
Halley Stevensons' commitment to in-house, end-to-end manufacturing means we work closely with their team to specify the exact weight, finish, colour, and handle we need for each garment — from the robust protection of a heavyweight waxed coat to the refined drape of a lighter waxed jacket. Every metre of fabric has been produced with the same exacting care and attention that we bring to our own designs. The same philosophy guides our choice of Abraham Moon tweed, another generational craft producer whose values mirror our own.
It is a partnership built on shared values: heritage, quality, sustainability, and a deep belief that the best products are made to last. When you choose a Jack Murphy waxed cotton garment, you are choosing over 200 years of combined craft, care, and experience in every piece you wear.
How to Care for Your Waxed Cotton
One of the great advantages of waxed cotton is how easy it is to maintain. With proper care, your Jack Murphy waxed cotton garment can last for generations.
With regular reproofing and sensible care, your Halley Stevensons waxed cotton will soften, develop character, and continue to protect you for years to come.
Regular Cleaning
Wipe down your jacket with a damp cloth or sponge to remove dirt and mud. Avoid machine washing, dry cleaning, or using detergent, as these will strip the wax from the fabric and reduce its water-resistant properties.
Drying
If your jacket gets wet, hang it in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry naturally. Avoid direct heat sources such as radiators or tumble dryers, which can damage the wax finish and affect the fabric's performance.
Reproofing
Over time, you may notice that your jacket's water resistance begins to fade, particularly in high-wear areas such as the shoulders and elbows. This is completely normal. Apply a specialist wax reproofing product to restore the fabric's protective barrier. Work the wax into the cotton with a clean cloth, paying extra attention to seams and creases. Once applied, use gentle heat (a hairdryer on a low setting works well) to help the wax absorb evenly into the fabric.
Storage
Store your waxed cotton garment on a broad hanger in a cool, dry place. Avoid folding it tightly for long periods, as this can cause the wax to crack along the fold lines.
Shop the Jack Murphy Waxed Cotton Collection
Every garment in our waxed cotton collection is made with Halley Stevensons fabric, produced at Baltic Works in Dundee, Scotland. Explore the range to find your next piece of outerwear. Built on heritage, designed for life.
Frequently Asked Questions
Halley Stevensons waxed cotton is a premium weatherproof fabric produced at Baltic Works in Dundee, Scotland. The company has been manufacturing waxed and waterproof textiles since 1864, making them the world's leading specialist in this field. Their fabrics are used by Jack Murphy Ireland and other prestigious outerwear brands worldwide.
Waxed cotton is highly water-resistant rather than fully waterproof. The wax treatment creates a natural barrier that repels rain and wind effectively in typical outdoor conditions. With regular reproofing, the water-resistant properties can be maintained indefinitely, making it a long-lasting and sustainable alternative to synthetic waterproof fabrics.
With proper care and occasional reproofing, a waxed cotton jacket can last for decades. The densely woven cotton is inherently durable, and unlike synthetic alternatives, it can be maintained and restored by the wearer. Many waxed cotton garments are passed down through generations.
Clean your jacket with a damp cloth first. Then apply a specialist wax reproofing product, working it into the fabric with a clean cloth. Pay extra attention to seams, shoulders, and elbows. Use gentle heat from a hairdryer on a low setting to help the wax absorb evenly. Reproof once or twice a year, depending on how frequently you wear the garment.
Yes. Halley Stevensons sources cotton responsibly through the Better Cotton Initiative and Organic Content Standard. Their waxes are biodegradable by-products from other industries, and their low-impact manufacturing uses minimal water with no waste discharges. They are a certified bluesign® system partner. Because waxed cotton garments are designed to last for years and can be reproofed rather than replaced, they represent a far more sustainable choice than disposable synthetic alternatives.
All Halley Stevensons waxed cotton is manufactured at Baltic Works, their historic 12,600 square metre factory at 28 Annfield Road, Dundee, Scotland. Every stage of production, including dyeing, finishing, waxing, and quality testing, takes place under one roof.